FOCUS ON THE ORSLOW F/W .22 COLLECTION
Orslow, the Japanese label specialized in utilitarian clothing, has been designing for several years sustainable clothing inspired by archival pieces, ranging from American military equipment to the Big E jacket line from Levi’s.
What makes the work of founder Ichiro Nakutsu so special is his reflection on materials, both noble and technical and especially on denim. Over the years, several classics have emerged from the lot, thus expanding the catalog of the brand. We make you discover the flagship pieces of our selection.
Reinterpretation of the classic 105, the Japanese brand offers today the 105W 1990’s Standard in 13.5 oz.
Reproduction of an American jean from the 90’s, its denim is a right-hand twill, whose weaving direction gives the denim a stiffer and tighter aspect, contrary to a left-hand twill which will be more flexible and will highlight the softness of the fabric. The pockets and chain links were sewn by an automatic machine, or “pocket setter”, with a polyester thread, more resistant than a cotton thread.
Still in a traditional Japanese denim, we find the 512 Painter Pant 9 oz, reference model of the label. This piece is made in a selvedge twill, for self-finished edge, meaning that the fabric is finished with an edge of fabric on the edges that allows it not to fray. Often colored, this finish is located on the seams along the leg and sometimes inside the gusset pocket. Unlike other jeans of the brand, the weave of the painter pant is in “broken twill”, a mixture of the techniques mentioned above, the fabric taking advantage of both the flexibility and holding of each of the weaves.
Orslow counts in its classics a multitude of other pants, and not only denim. The 5000 French Work, for example, inspired by the work pants produced in Europe around the 1960s, is made from a herringbone woven cotton fabric. It is a light and flexible model with an elastic waist. Its flat felled seam finish will be more durable than traditional overlock stitching.
For the V560 Vintage fit Cargo, Orslow stayed true to its basic characteristics by using a ripstop fabric originally used by the US ARMY in the 1960s. This fabric is woven in a grid pattern, characteristic of the grid pattern on its surface. What sets the Orslow cargo apart is the use of ripstop poplin. This more subtle fabric gives a slightly shiny and soft look.
Orslow pants have the distinction of being rather light. The denim models we offer in our selection at Graduate are 13.5 oz, an ideal compromise between the robustness of a thick fabric and the lightness of a thinner one. The other fabrics of the Orslow pants are around 9 oz, which makes them perfect for mid-season.